A Week On The Wrist

A. Lange & Söhne

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In addition to the new GMT Rattrapante, Parmigiani Fleurier is updating its flagship Tonda PF line with a skeletonized wristwatch in stainless steel and rose gold. In traditional Parmigiani fashion, the new Tonda PF Skeleton is full of subtle detailing and impressive watchmaking ability that hammer home the company's leading vertical manufacturing capabilities.

Starting with the Tonda PF form factor that we're getting to know extremely well around these parts, the Tonda PF Skeleton strips away the dial to reveal the PF777 caliber inside, featuring a 60-hour power reserve and operating at 4 Hz. The movement bridges have been dressed up with an NAC coating, an alloy of the platinum family, that reveals a dark grey finish. These bridges also share an attractive vertical brushing throughout, while the beveled edges have received a mirror-polished chamfer.

Unusual for a skeletonized watch, the PF777 is a self-winding movement equipped with a full rotor in 22ct rose gold that's been open-worked, polished, and sandblasted. The oscillating weight notably includes a floating "PF" logo set in sapphire at its center.

Over on the front side, the applied 18k rose gold hour markers have been suspended over the movement, using a similar approach to what's found on the standard Tonda PF line. Where the previous models used a multi-layered dial with hour markers set across two levels, the Skeleton version of the Tonda PF removes one of those layers, resulting in the faceted hour markers appearing to somehow float on top of the (non-existent) dial. Finally, the Parmigiani "PF" logo is engraved into the movement plate underneath the 12 o'clock marker.

The pair of Tonda PF Skeleton iterations that are available at launch are each placed inside a 40mm × 8.5mm case, in either stainless steel (CHF 59,000) or rose gold (CHF 88,000), featuring 100-meter water-resistance ratings and screw-down crowns.

I'm enjoying watching all the different iterations of the new Tonda PF line gradually being born. It's only been seven months since the entirely new collection was introduced, and we've already seen a time-and-date model, a chronograph, an annual calendar, a rattrapante chronograph, and a world-first GMT complication; now we have an openworked model to add to the collection. 

Similar to Terreni's time at Bulgari with the Octo Finissimo line, the Tonda PF has proven to be quite the versatile platform, able to carry a number of different styles and executions within it. Speaking of which, Bulgari's tentpole product line houses one of my favorite skeletonized watches in recent years, so it should be no surprise that I also find the Tonda PF Skeleton to be quite fetching.

Openworked designs can often feel lazy, with bits and pieces of dial peeled away in order to reveal a basic-looking movement inside. That's not the case here – the application of NAC is attractive on both the steel and gold examples, which speaks to the versatility of both the color grey and the Tonda PF line as a whole. I also appreciate the slight opening positioned above the mainspring barrel, which will allow you to see the mainspring wind as the watch is worn.

Most importantly, Parmigiani's Tonda PF Skeleton passes a significant test for an openworked watch – it's highly legible, with the rose gold hands, also skeletonized, offering clear contrast against the dark-grey bridges below.

Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier Model: Tonda PF Skeleton Reference Number: PFc912-102000B-100182

Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 8.5mm Case Material: Stainless steel, with platinum knurled bezel Dial Color: Skeleton, with NAC coating Indexes: Suspended over movement, in 18-carat rose gold Lume: N/A Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Integrated stainless-steel three-link bracelet

Caliber: PF777 Functions: Hours, minutes Diameter: 30mm Thickness: 3.9mm Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz Jewels: 29 Additional Details: 22-carat rose gold open-worked oscillating weight, with polished and sand-blasted finish and floating "PF" logo set in sapphire crystal; satin-finished open-worked bridges with bevelled edges

Price: $65,300, stainless steel; $97,400, 18k rose gold Availability: May 2022 Limited Edition: N/A

You can learn more about Parmigiani Fleurier online.

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